Volunteer Log Stardate 2005

It feels really good to be able to write that this morning. At midnight we heard people outside the Guest House shouting and thought it was a brave stand against the 24 hour curfew which had been imposed from 10pm. We went up on the roof and could hear shouting from the ring road after our small demonstration had passed by. We all thought today was going to be momentous day.

To look at the smiles on Nepali faces this morning, it certainly is and there will be a rally today all round the ring road, but it is a victory parade, becuase at 11pm last night the King appeared on TV to announce the reconvening of the representative assembly on Friday. Our demo had been cheering the peoples' success.

For us it doesn't completely take away the uncertainty. As far as we know, we are still 'on leave' until 22nd May. Many of us have arranged to go away as was recommended to us last week. I think we all need a change of scene and conversation other than 'What time's curfew?' 'How's so-and-so managing?' 'Have you heard from the east?'
We may have been 'doing nothing' but we had realised this weekend how much of a toll it was taking. One of our Canadian colleagues and two of our English friends have decided to take the early repatriation offered. My friends Jose and Clare are so far still in Hetauda. There was talk of them 'escaping' in the newspaper van. Claire (another one) arrived from Dharan yesterday after a long rickshaw and motor bike ride through road blocks and demonstrations to reach the nearest airport. Sandy and her Nepali teaching counterpart (who is on his way to London to take part in Global Campaign for Education events) cycled seventy kilometres to their nearest airport before coming to Kathmandu. We have the wherewithall to do these things - many Nepalis have making the same journeys on foot during the past three weeks.

It's not been easy, it's not been comfortable, but it's made us think about what's important. What would we save if we were evacuated? In my case it was my lap top, the only thing of value I have with me-I moved all my current worldly goods from one hotel to the other yesterday in one small hold-all and two carrier bags (mostly the books I've bought or borrowed here) and I'm managing fine.

The thought of not getting back to Hetauda before we were evacuated, was weighing very heavy until this morning as Danny (big boss) had asked us to let the office know what should be done with our belongings if we left the country and couldn't get back. I don't know when, but I know I will go back now. I don't know about the job - I have reservations about working for the Government until politics are clear, but once the schools open again, I'm sure there will be work.

I would like to thank everyone who has expressed concern about my welfare over the past three weeks and I hope the news coverage has informed people about the problems faced by so many developing nations as they try to move forward in implementing their ideas. It's been a priviledge to see the determination of the people, and I hope they can now enjoy a period of stability which so many of them need.

This blog was going to be a catalogue of curfews and diary of demos, but that doesn't seem so important this morning. However, her's a shortened vesion of what I've been writing (with a pen) over the past few days.

New Year's Day-1 Baisakh 2063/Good Friday-14th April 2006
Very little celebration in the capital last night because of the current situation, though I understand that out west the liquidcelebrations continued for two days. On Friday though, the atmosphere was very different from previous days with families enjoying time out together and more traffic on the road. The only down-side was the King's long-awaited message which was a real let-down - nothing new on offer, with the result tha the parties decided to strengthen their hold on the strike.
Saturday
I didn't have long to wait to notice the new determination. While I was eating breakfast a group came through Thamel and ordered shops to close, which they did very quickly, leaving the tourists and shoppers to retreat through eerily quiet, shuttered streets.
Sunday
We celebrated Easter Day at the Pacific with a short, simple communion service organised by three of the new volunteers. A group of 8, representing 6 nationalities and 7 denominations, we felt we'd beaten the constaints of the curfew to do what we wanted on that day.
Tuesday
Am I in England or Nepal? After a tremendous thunderstorm starting at 11pm the rain started and din't stop until the following teatime. Not only was there rain (I'm expecting that in monsoon) but it was so cold! I made one shopkeeper's day by buying a woollen shawl which he says is yak. The shops have had their trading time drastically reduced byb the curfews, so are being even more aggressive in their approach than ever. The young women with hungry children and ever empty feeding bottles who stand by the supermarket door are also no longer working shifts, but all there together whenever the shops are open. Some of the street children have found an advantage in the strike - bagging the mounting piles of rubbish in the alleys - I imagine they aren't doing it for free!
Wednesday
Security meeting- Danny says go away for as long as you lke until 22nd May, then if youn can't work, we'll repatriate you. Not a good feeling at the Pacific, where all the new vols are thinking they will be home son. Some havemade tremendous sacrifices to come and are naturally down-hearted. Some already have flats,but can't move in, some can't look for flats because of curfew.
Thursday
Big demo so 2am to 8 pm curfew. I stayed at the Paradise and met an interesting couple who were making a film for anaother British NGO. I ended up doing some pieces to camera, but I don't think they'll see the light of day (not without VSO's say-so anyway). The views of the young American interviewer were fascinating (and scary)but I'm glad he didn't make the suggestion to storm the Palace with all the ex-Israeli army recruits in Thamel too loudly.The day passed remarkably quickly even though the curfew was extended to midnight.
Friday
I got caught out by an extended curfew and spent the night at the Pacific, thanks to some generous vols who lent the necessaries.
Saturday
All wel until sudden curfew at 12. The mood had changed because the previous night the King had asked the parties to provide a new prime minister and it wasn't enough. For the first time we heard shouts nearby and the APF were shoulder to shoulder at the end of the alley. The thunder that had been rumbling round suddenly turned to rain and the demo dissolved in the hailstones.

So to Monday with continual uncertainty increasing fear of the future. It's still not clear, but hopefully you won't be seing a continual bloodcount on your screens and we will pick up our 'interesting' lives and continue them perhaps not in the same way.

This may be the last from Nepal for a while if I do go off with Roz to Thailand - I'll believe things now only when they happen (Yes I do believe Boro can do it!)

Please read the previous blog before this one. The gremlins are well and truly about - only half my afternoon's work saved and it doesn't make much sense (it might not even when I've written it again).

I survived Saturday, thanks to football and a good book (can't remember which one, I've read several this week)and Sunday I was down at reception at 7.10 am all ready to go up to the Pacific. 'Sorry madam, curfew started 10 minutes ago!' Not the best of days - 7am to 8pm, but despite watching Aston Villa when the other sports channel went off it was OK - the few other guests all came up to the roof terrace and had a chat, particularly a guy from Bangladesh who had come to start a managerial job at the airport and hadn't been able to get there. As it was the day Bangladesh were doing well against the Aussies at cricket he was happier about that than 'this terrible country'.

Anyway I thought you might like to read what came into my head that day as I was thinking about the song title 'Another Day in Paradise'(hotel name is Paradise Plaza - keep up!) (Phil Collins -1980s?)so I've put it at the end. Strangely I had an e-mail from Roz in Pokhara today - she included her musings while undergoing curfew -so many similarities it's uncanny - obviously VSO mind-set.

Since MOnday I've been to the Pacific during daytime curfew hours. They are not a happy group - should have been going to post this weekend, but the two education volunteers have been given new placements because of security issues and two volunteers gong to the east have been told to wait for up to three weeks to continue assessing the situation. There has been talk of evacuating the volunteers on their own (both in the east)and the FCO advice to Britons in Nepal is to consider if their stay is vital. This is one of the danger signals for our programmes, so you will understand why we are really unsure about the future. I am particulaly concerned about the future of the education programme as it is based in government offices - even though we are neutral when it comes to the political situation.

Can't worry too much now as I'm in KTM until the 'indefinite' strike
ends-doesn't feel like a strike today, and no curfew, but still no road travel from the airport to Hetauda, so I'm under orders frombig boss Danny.

We must be the only people who are ssupposed to be impartial at the moment, because during the week the number of protestors has grown - not just the students who hog the limelight on TV, but also the doctors, journalists, writers, bank workers and civil servants. Teachers in Makwanpur want to keep schools closed indefinitely. The news today is that the Nepal Bar Association (lawyers, not publicans!)has been demonstrating. The news from Hetauda is that there have been twice daly demonstrtions, and parades, rubber bulets, injuries and plenty of arests. Kamal Thapa's other house in town has been stoned. This is not going to have an easy ending - perhaps we'll know more tomorrow with the King's New Year message.

Yes today is New Year's Eve, though we shalln't be celebrating because of curfew, so we can't go to see Bouddha lit up or watch the chariot tug-of-war at Bakhtapur.

I've found this really nice courtyard restaurant where they have wireless internet access, so I've been here all afternonn and think I've drunk enough lemon sodas, so I'll be closing.

Subra naya barsa (Happy new year)for 2063 (still don't know what we count from)and happy Easter (I'm missing the church picnic in Hetauda too)

Enjoy feeling safe.

Palm Sunday 2006 - 'Another Day in Paradise'

Give me barking dogs, roaring motor bikes and blaring
taxi horns, but not this eerie stillness. Kathmandu was never meant to be so quiet. Thank goodness for crows, sparrows and pigeons for breaking the silence and kites for soaring gently on the thermals to show that something is still moving in the valley.

A sudden rumble on Kantipath-three army personnel carriers pass the end of the alley, deserted toda even by the Arme Police Force. Perhaps they're needed elsewhere.

The day is pleasantly warm and a slight breeze rustles the leaves on the pot plants here on the roof of 'Paradise'. The sky is overcast, no chance of a glimpse of the mountains, which has been possible after previous bandhs and holidays thanks to the reduced levels of pollution. There may be rain later. Even the weather has caught the mood of uncertainty.

To the northwest, someewhere over Thamel dark smoking is curling upwards, but quickly vanishes.

Escape! A small plane is heading westwards - don't think I'd want to go to Pokhara just now, but Jomsum would be good.

12 o'clock-the bell tower clock is stiking. It looks very near, but always seem a distance to walk - probably because of the time taken crossing roads and avoiding market produce spread over the pavement, but now Durbar Marg and Kantipath are as empty of people as Rani Pokhari is of water.

Action in the alley-an APF jeep on a tour of inspection - nothing to report here sir - just a hotel guest on his balcony across the way and a large relaxed nan staring at the sky - from an advert probably for cigarettes!

Peace and quiet - do the two always go together? It's quiet here, but peaceful? Certainly not-you can almost taste the tension in the air. A child is yelling - probably with frustration - I feel like joining in. What's the point of this curfew?

It's just shaking up the Pepsi bottle-when the top comes off - stand very well clear. We volunteers may be covered in spray and then it will all go flat or we may be sent flying with the bubbles. But whatever the outcome we've been in the bottle and I'm very grateful for that.

I keep saying every day in Nepal brings surprises - well this is one I certainly wasn't expecting! Shortly after writing the last episode I realised I hadn't lost the dreaded lurgy. As the bandh was coming up, Clare was stuck in Kathmandu waiting for her visa to be renewed and Jose and some of the Birgunj group were talking about going to India for the bandh period (and I was thinking of going with them)it was just the wrong time. As I'd followed the clinic's advice before, the only thing for it was a trip to KTM to actually have some tests and check out that we were treating the right complaint. With the help of a friendly travel agent (he used to live in the flat Clare lives in) I got a seat on a flight the following day - Monday 3rd April - and was in the clinic by 11am. A quick trip to VSO to explain my garbled e-mail, a taxi ride back to my hotel - the Paradise Plaza,(the Pacific Guest House still being full of new volunteers)and the rest of the day sleeping. Within 48 hours I was feeling much better, eating properly (I just hadn't felt like cooking, so hadn't been eating well)and avoiding dairy products which apparently aren't absorbed properly when this little beasty is present.But Dr Buddha said I had to stay in KTM until Sunday to get a check up before I returned to Hetauda. Oh joy - the 4 day bandh in Kathmandu! We were advised to stay close to our homes and if a curfew was called to stay inside. The first day (Thursday)was very strange The streets wee deserted - I took a photo of the royal palace (not a guard in sight) standing in the middle of Durbar Marg - one of KTM's main roads. I walked as far as Durbar Square (not sure how near 'near' was meant to be) in half the time it normally takes to thread your way round Thamel. I'd already met one procession of a small statue (it was also a festival day)and assumed I was meeting it again, but no - this was the 'living goddess' herself - a little girl of about 8 who is treated as a goddess from the age of about 4 to puberty - her feet never touch the ground, she lives in her own palace in Durbar Square and there are many intersting stories about her (I've just read the biography of one of the former 'Kumari' as they are called and it's fascinating). So day 1 passed and day 2 (that was Friday when I walked round with a big grin on my face because Boro had beaten Basel 4-1 and were in the semi finals of the UEFA Cup-one good thing about this hotel - I have a TV in my room so I watched every single sports broadcast that had the goals!) Then came day 3-Saturday- when the 7 parties had said they would have a large peaceful demonstration (all sort of things were happening in other parts of the country which weren't at all peaceful). What does the government usually do on ocasions like this - put a curfew in place. I had said I would spend any curfew times with the new volunteers at the Pacific, but this one was going to last until 9pm - night curfew starting again at 11pm-